Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city is little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always shaped its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these stories and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.